• Welcome to Avian Avenue! To view our forum with less advertisments please register with us.
    Memberships are free and it will just take a moment. Click here

Adopted a blue crown… help?

ParrotNPC

Moving in
Joined
12/16/23
Messages
7
Real Name
Alicia
I don’t know if this is the right place to get advice for a BCC… but I recently adopted “Claira” renamed Bluebelle. My son liked blue, I liked belle… and boom. Anyways… I went into a parrot store for a meet and greet 3 times. Put down a deposit. I could tell she was scared, anxious and unsure but eventually she would let my touch her beak, then her head during our 45-90 minute meetings. I just chose to stay that long and let her get comfortable with my presence. I found out that she was hand fed raised at this store, but when she started eating on her own, she just basically stayed in the cage for 3 years because no one wanted to pay her adoption fee. I’m a bleeding heart to say the least so I dropped the $2700 and brought her home as soon as I got my tax return. Her fear of course has heightened! New people, new home, new toys, new cage! I’m aware that this must all be very scary for her… so she has bitten me 3 out of the 4 days I’ve had her and oh my gosh it smarts! She broke skin the first two times. I’m actually, against better judgement and knowledge… wary of her now. And I feel bad but she really knows how to surprise me, and get a unexpected pain response. That’s not what I need help with though, I know on that I need to work on my response to the bite and really enforce positive training. The problem is, I’ll leave her cage door open and she won’t come out willingly at all. She’s barely sleeping. She will stay in the exact same spot for hours (not like 3-5, more like 12-24). She’s barely eating. I reached out to the shop owner and she just suggested I give her some of her favorite treats I was sent home with, problem is… I had multiple of those treats on top of her pellets. Completely untouched. I basically starting cutting up every fresh fruit and veggie in the house for her and offer it to her by hand where she will take
A couple of nibbles then turn away. If I put it in her bowl she won’t touch it. I have tried cooking rice, scrambled egg, protein pasta, I have offered her string cheese, raw walnuts, almonds, Brazil nuts… she took some nibbles of the pasta, cheese and egg… but won’t eat the other things. She isn’t drinking her water, I even bought that expensive parrot calming powder and mixed a little in water in a syringe and… I don’t know if it’s even working. I finally got her to eat 2 nutriberrie balls tonight. She nibbled then dropped 2 more. But I keep having to syringe feed her water because she’s not drinking. I can tell from her droppings that she’s basically only passing bile, the like dark green poop that when I clean up, the napkin is dark neon green. Her urate is still white which is relieving, but her liquid bits went from clear to now a light yellow… She’s starting to get dehydrated(which is why I just kept bringing her multiple different things to nibble tonight, I was basically just determined to get her to eat a decent amount) and tonight a little progress on the food was made. I even got a little thing of water and in front of her, crushed a small mandarin slice into it, trying to sweeten it with a flavor she likes and get her to drink it.. nothing. She just kept biting the small water bowl when I put it near her. And she’s not clipped, thank goodness. I hated that my GCC was clipped when I adopter her….. but I can tell Bluebelle isn’t used to flying at all. She tires quickly, I’ve never seen her fly more than a whole minute without having to land and panting hard. So I just… how do I get her to drink water and eat more food? I give a pellet mixture to my GCC… a combination of normal and soft pellets with a mix of dried egg crumble, shelled hemp, and ground flax. I have PLENTY of different raw mixed nuts. She came with her own mix of different bird foods I was told she likes… and she’s not eating that either. Basically, the nutriberry thing tonight was a huge success, but she’s also only nibbling at the fresh stuff. The picture is of her on my lap under a makeshift “tent” bit with my blanket. She seems relaxed when under cover, so I wanted to see if relaxing under cover on my lap would help get her used to me. She’s not socialized at all. Shes
Just scared, aggressive and like… just boycotting survival.
 

Attachments

NightOwls

Rollerblading along the road
Avenue Veteran
Celebirdy of the Month
Avenue Spotlight Award
Cutest Bird Ever!!!
Joined
8/12/18
Messages
1,492
Location
Long Island
So how long have you had her now?
 

Tommy95

Meeting neighbors
Joined
2/8/24
Messages
39
Real Name
Thomas
Hmm I think she is either sick, or really overwhelmed that it is overriding her hunger and thirst.

If she is scared, I think it is best to leave her alone for a few days and really limit interactions until she is more comfortable to eat and drink and move about. Parrots are not like dogs or cats whereby interaction can bring comfort, sometimes interaction can overwhelm a scared bird.
 

ParrotNPC

Moving in
Joined
12/16/23
Messages
7
Real Name
Alicia
Hmm I think she is either sick, or really overwhelmed that it is overriding her hunger and thirst.

If she is scared, I think it is best to leave her alone for a few days and really limit interactions until she is more comfortable to eat and drink and move about. Parrots are not like dogs or cats whereby interaction can bring comfort, sometimes interaction can overwhelm a scared bird.
Thank you! been trying to figure out new things. I did figure out if I just leave her cage door open and use a wood chopstick to offer hydrating fruits that she accepts that… as long as I’m sitting down below her cage while I’m doing it. She seems more frightened if I’m standing or using my hands. I’ve tried coconut water and adding real fruit juice to her water and she won’t touch it. I’m wondering if I should move her water bowl, but with your advice I’ll give it more time before I do that. So hopefully the watermelon and cantaloupe on a chopstick will keep her fed and hydrated enough while she gets more comfortable. After she’s done, I just leave her alone the rest of the time with her cage door open. I want her to feel like she has a choice to stay or come out and I also installed a little camera above her cage so I can keep an eye on her without overwhelming her. She does seem to be keeping up her strength and the camera let me know she is sleeping (thank goodness!). So as long as she keeps taking little bits of protein pasta, scrambled egg and more hydrating fruits and she isn’t losing too much weight and her energy is keeping up, I’m gonna just remain calm and patient. She even lets me dip the chopstick in coconut water and she will take the drops… I’m wondering if the water bowl or the location is the problem. She’s still not interested in her pellets or seeds.
 

ParrotNPC

Moving in
Joined
12/16/23
Messages
7
Real Name
Alicia
*UPDATE*
so the camera helped me see she is sleeping, and even being goofy in her cage when she wakes up. Today she willingly came out of her cage and now she prefers to land on something that is near me and squawk very loudly at me. It gave me the freedom to relocate the bowls in her cage. She won’t let me near her per se… but she’s very determined to be near me, and loudly. She’s preening also. She is a lot more lively today. But that noise she’s making… has me reconsidering her name . She’s like a little harpy.
 

ParrotNPC

Moving in
Joined
12/16/23
Messages
7
Real Name
Alicia
*UPDATE*
so the camera helped me see she is sleeping, and even being goofy in her cage when she wakes up. Today she willingly came out of her cage and now she prefers to land on something that is near me and squawk very loudly at me. It gave me the freedom to relocate the bowls in her cage. She won’t let me near her per se… but she’s very determined to be near me, and loudly. She’s preening also. She is a lot more lively today. But that noise she’s making… has me reconsidering her name . She’s like a little harpy.
*UPDATE 2*
Good news! She still isn’t eating her pellets or seeds. I think now she’s just expecting fresh food made for her, oops . But I placed water all around the room for when she leaves her cage, and learned that cantaloupe is her weakness! So I drop a massive piece in the small water bowls and she goes around nibbling and drinking during the day. Also I tried to take a nap and when I put my blanket over my head… she said “peekaboo” and it threw me off for a moment because I was tired, but I ended up laying in bed exhausted playing peekaboo with her. I didn’t know she knew how to do that. Also now she will randomly do this piercing shriek, where I was convinced there was a hawk in my room for a moment. So now I need to find out what that hawk like shriek means. But she’s vocally interacting now and trying to play. Also I’m now allowed to hand feed her fruits. So any advice to continue down this improving path is greatly appreciated!
 

Pixiebeak

Biking along the boulevard
Celebirdy of the Month
Mayor of the Avenue
Avenue Spotlight Award
Cutest Bird Ever!!!
Joined
6/18/22
Messages
7,824
Location
USA
Real Name
Laura
Congratulations on your new birdie!!!

It's hard to go over a lot of behavior stuff in breifly way ;)

First you need to adjust your timeline expectations. Birds are so intelligent, and emotional, and complex . And this poor one has been at disadvantage in not getting exposed to much being confined. She as actually done amazing for such a short period of time !!! It can take some several weeks to adjust to just being in a new home with a new routine.

If you are getting bitten , you are probably rushing her to much , don't force interaction. Earn and build trust starting small and building on that in small steps .

For example, my pet store quaker who was still a baby , not years at a store and mostly caged . It took six months to overcome hand shyness. About a year before I could really pet her and cuddle. Recently this same girl develop fear of hands again ( this can happen randomly in previously tane birds, or trigger or incident can happen) it took 30! 30 days to rebuild trust . Things don't happen fast in bird worlds, they can , but don't expect it to. Patience.

Shaping is a great tool. You break things down and work up to the goal.

This is going to be an example broke down :
New bird fearful, moves away , nervous uncomfortable around people.
To start in most extreme cases. You say hello " birds name " from far enough away that this doesn't cause a fearful response. Then walk calmly towards cage , watching birds behavior, but not in an intense sneaky predators way , stop at the first sign of uncomfortable shifting or heightened awareness of you. Stay in that spot talking calmly, when bird relaxes again, say good birdie!, and turn and walk away. You are showing you pay attention to and respect their body language, and ended on positive .
Repeat randomly all day long , and over however many days it takes . You should be able to move closer each time , or maintaining the distance you achieve before fear response. Always say good birdie to mark when they relax to you..

On times you must go to cage for maintaining and feed,( during this above stage of learning comfort and confidence) pick a phrase you use for that. Hello " name " I'm coming over to feed you , and clean your cage . Make sure you provide a high perch away from food bowls that they can retreat to while you do scary cage stuff , maybe even hang a toy in front of that retreat perch as visual screening . Do not focus on them while you do musts for cage. Try and finish while they are as calm as they can be at this intrusion, and tell them " all done" walk away . Be predictable with routine..

Still working on the first part , being ok and not reactive to walking up . At some point you can walk up to say hi and they are ok with that .

Then the next part in shaping and building trust with a fearful bird , is being able to give treats. That's when things can start building faster , with really postive reinforcement. So most birds in the untamed fearful state, aren't going to just take a treat from your hand . So you will get a very small treat only dish and a perch next to treat only dish , in the front of cage by door . You will still announce yourself before you approach cage . Then you will walk up to cage , say hi again show them the treat , ( nearly always a seed works best , a safflower seed is my go to, ) and drop seed in treat dish and back up enough they feel comfortable enough to come over and get seed. When they get seed( treat) in beak, mark it with good birdie, and turn and walk away. Repeat randomly several times a day. The treat must be high value enough that they really want it, and the only time they get it right now , is for this.

After that goes well several times, then still doing as announce first,walk up say show treat , but wait until they at least look at you, before dropping in and stepping back, but not as far as you did before. Wait till takes treat , good birdie, walk away . Then I shaping more , the next is they have to take st least one step towards treat dish before you drop it and move back less far. You will work upto them coming all to treat dish before you drop it and take haf a step back . I like to do this stage many times until they readily come right over for treat. Then I'm ready to try treat directly from me. Still announce walk over , hi birdie , show treat , hold it by dish when they come over hand it to them . After that yay ! You can start going over tons for just hi and hand treat .

It's very fluid and adjusted individually based on birds response. It can take a single day for them to get it and move each step closer to final results of handing them treat's, or it can be days or weeks to make progress.

A very long winded way to share shaping! But when you grain that idea, think little steps , you can apply and have success in many different areas.
 
Top